Tuesday 24 October 2017

Vancouver Island from land and sea


The planning for our holiday on Vancouver Island started about a year ago. We and 6 other friends from our kayak club booked a week's expedition with Mike from Mountain & Sea Guides. As it's such a big island and Jaap and I only visited Victoria during our honeymoon, we deciced to add two more weeks. Finally on the 19th of August our big holiday started and we flew out to Vancouver and then Port Hardy in the North East.

After Port Hardy (just North of Telegraph Cove) we stayed in Strathcona Park (Buttle Lake) where we met our Dutch friends by coincidence, Tofino where we walked through dense rainforest and over massive roots to reach Cone Hill, Ucluelet where we walked part of the Wild Pacific Trail, Courtenay where we cooled off in the local river and Quadra Island where we met Driftwood Tom. Then we went to Telegraph Cove where our week's kayak expedition to the Broughton Archipelago started from.

Map of Vancouver Island with visited places (blue triangles)

Below is a selection of photos and videos to get an impression of what we saw and did. A picture tells a thousand words so the writing will be very limited. Not all photos have been taken by myself and where relevant have been credited accordingly. I would like to thank Dave, Jill, Nicky and Mo for their permission to use them here. Enjoy!


Juvenile bald eagle


Colourful damselfly

Bear warning sign along one of the many trails

Swimming in Buttle Lake, Strathcona Park

The cool lad and the silly lassie underwater

Stunning scenery at Buttle Lake

Our first night camping at Buttle Lake


Map of Tofino and Ucluelet area


Boat journey to Meares Island near Tofino

Sunset from Meares Island


After a long, steep and sweaty ascent we finally made it
to the top of Cone Hill on Meares Island


Derelict van as sculptural feature in Tofino Botanical Gardens

Brilliant sign in Tofino Botanical Gardens


Vintage typewriter in nature


Man and woman sculpture


Lily pond at botanical gardens


More sculptures in the garden


I was treated a delicious lunch for my birthday at Tofino Botanical Gardens



Our camping spot at Ucluelet just after we had been notified
a bear wasforaging on this very spot an hour earlier!



Wild Pacific Trail sign


We actually thought this was put up mainly to keep dogs on a leash.
Wolves tend to avoid places where there are many tourists!


The trail had magnificent views of the Pacific Ocean around every corner


We had just been warned by the warden that a bear had been spotted
on the trail about an hour earlier and then we saw bear poo. 
It's full of blackcurrants and smells like it too!


This large Douglas Fir tree is a very popular tourist attraction and
is located at Cathedral Cove between Ucluelet and Port Alberni


It's hard to see the size of the Big Tree in such a dense rainforest


Branches are covered in lichen


Beautiful root system of a fallen tree


A giant chair made from driftwood by Driftwood Tom on Quadra Island


Driftwood Tom and Jaap in front of his self-built house.
It was so inspiring to meet him and to see his work!


True craftmanship

Nature taking over


Driftwood Tom builds these small huts for the many hippies
who live in the forests of Vancouver Island


At Nuyumbalees Cultural Center on Quadra Island we learnt about
Canada's First Nations populations, their woodcarvings
and their potlatch collections such as masks

Time for reflection and shade under this artistic construction


First Nations woodcarving


Postcard The Pod by Trevor Angus:
"Whales teach us about living together with family and community"


Postcard Eagle Transforming by Corey W. Moraes:
"The spirit in all beings offers guidance as we transform"


Postcard Whale by Paul Windsor:
"Whales provide us a message of family, unity and collective strength"


Boardwalk at Telegraph Cove


Telegraph Cove Harbour


WWII Telegraph Line at Telegraph Cove


Navigating through rainforest near Telegraph Cove to
reach a viewpoint overlooking Johnstone Strait
© Jill Franks


On two occassions I almost stepped on the Common Garter snake!
© Dave Johnson

Our kayaks ready for a week's paddling in the Broughton Archipelago
©Dave Johnson


Day 1: Telegraph Cove to Kaikash Creek Forest Recreation Site, 14 km
Day 2: Kaikash to Mound Island, 21 km


Killer whales in Johnstone Strait



Killer whales in Blackney Passage



Our campsite at Mound Island (2nd night)


Every night we had a delicious meal cooked by Mike.
Afterwards there was a strict regime to put all washed up dishes,
cutlery, mugs and even toothpaste in our kayaks to avoid attracting
bears and cougars. Even deodorant was not permitted!


Mo drawing skillfully in her sketchbook


Day 3: Mound Island to Echo Bay, about 30 km
 

Jaap observing a flock of small waders © Mo Jones


A flock of waders along the coastline


A fresh bear footprint on the beach where we just had lunch!
© Nicky Penford


As soon as we had finished our lunch here and got back
on the water this bear appeared!


Although being aware of us on the water, this bear just continued
foraging for seafood along the coastline © Dave Johnson



While safely on the water, I was able to capture the movement of this bear
foraging for food and even having a poo!


After that amazing experience, we might have slept a bit differently!


Arriving in Echo Bay after a long paddle day


Echo Bay from our campsite (3rd night)


Mooring at Echo Bay shop and filling station to get fresh water
and check the weather forecast for the coming days © Jill Franks

Mike briefing us about where we're going to paddle to next


Day 4: Echo Bay to Crib Island, about 25 km


Thick fog and drizzle on day 4 created a mystical atmosphere


Sea lions on Screen Island © Dave Johnson



 
The sound of the Steller sea lion bulls was very impressive, especially because you 
could hardly see them!

 
The mesmerising sound of the Common Loons


Common Loon with chick © Eagle Wing Tours

Day 5: Crib Island to White Cliff, 14 km

On day 5 the fog was luckily lifting. We had lunch and waited for slack water
at Dusky Cove © Jill Franks


Me enjoying the scenery and beautiful weather after a day of fog and rain
© Jill Franks


Jaap and me paddling approaching one of the islets in the Broughton Archipelago
© Dave Johnson


Jaap paddling towards one of the islets in Broughton Archipelago


Taking in this amazing scenery at Broughton Archipelago


Once we arrived at White Cliff in the early afternoon, Jaap went for a swim.
It was hot and humid all week and we hadn't had a shower since we left.
He was very brave as the water temperature was just around 8 degrees!!!
© Dave Johnson


Me searching for humpback whales from White Cliff where we stayed the night.
They were in abundance here! © Dave Johnson


Our camp at White Cliff


 
We were extremely lucky to have been able to watch this humpback whale 
bubble netting from 'our' islet White Cliff!


 
This whale was surely putting up a show just for us....about 7 times in a row!!




Our kayaks parked for the night on driftwood

Sunset with moon at White Cliff © Dave Johnson

Pure bliss; enjoying yummy food with friends in stunning scenery while watching
humpback whales catching their meal. It can't get any better than this!

Humpback whale at sunset © Dave Johnson



Day 6: From White Cliff to Hanson Island, 11 km
Day 7: From Hanson Island back to Telegraph Cove, 16 km


Me doing kayak yoga in Johnstone Strait © Nicky Penford


Drying out our stuff after a week's paddling during our lunchbreak
© Nicky Penford

Our expedition team. Thank you all for a great time and in particular
our guide Mike (in blue) for being a superb leader and cook!


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