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Wednesday, 25 May 2016

Mini kayak expedition Skye

To build up our paddling fitness again, Jaap, our neighbour Lucy and me planned a 3 day kayak expedition to the Isle of Skye in the weekend of the 14th of May. The whole week it had been stunning weather with temperatures of about 20 C (at least on the West coast, not with us unfortunately!) and wall to wall sunshine. However, change was on its way so we worked out a few options. Initially we planned to go round Neist point and then explore Wiay Island.

We first stocked up our supplies in Broadford and enjoyed a delicious (late) breakfast at Cafe Sia. The moment we left Broadford, the only road leading to our destination closed down (and would be for several hours) due to a severe road accident. Change of plan; our new launch point would be Elgol. We did a trip from here almost 3 years ago (http://fenfolio.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/kayak-skye.html). It was wonderful to be here again, in beautiful weather (again!) and Lucy had never paddled here before so we could show her the way.

Launch at Elgol ©Fenfolio2016

With a head wind of 4 (gusts up to 5) from the North East we first made our way into Loch Scavaig and the start of Loch Coruisk with stunning views to the Cuillin mountains.

Paddling in front of The Cuillins ©Fenfolio2016

Jaap on Loch Scavaig ©Fenfolio2016

Sky, mountain and bothy ©Fenfolio2016

Approaching Loch Coruisk ©Fenfolio2016

Early in the evening we arrived on headland Rhubha an Dunain where we wanted to set camp (like last time). Unfortunately we couldn't land from the North due to the wind and lumpy sea so we decided to get out on the South side of the headland instead. There was plenty of space to pitch our tent but it took some time to found the least windy spot!

Our campsite at Rhubha an Dunain ©Fenfolio2016

View towards Rum and Canna ©Fenfolio2016

Lucy using her petrol stove in prep for her Greenland trip
©Fenfolio2016

Overnight the wind died down completely and with a clear sky it was surprisingly cold. Unfortunately there was no firewood to be found here so we wore all our layers and down jacket (me also in bed!).

Calm but very cold night ©Fenfolio2016

The next day we explored this fascinating headland. There are some really interesting historic sites here such as a dun, chambered cairn and an ancient canal thought to be built by Vikings!

Exploring Rhubha an Dunain ©Fenfolio2016

Jaap on ancient dun ©Fenfolio2016

Picture perfect view to Rum and Canna ©Fenfolio2016

Lucy exloring chambered cairn ©Fenfolio2016

Ancient canal ©Fenfolio2016

Happy girls ©Fenfolio2016

Ruins from a house ©Fenfolio2016

Once we had packed all our stuff we paddled back through Soay Sound. Suddenly a large group of feeding seabirds got our attention. At closer inspection we saw about 8 harbour porpoises joining the feeding party!

One of the many harbour porpoises ©Fenfolio2016

The coastline was stunning here, showing off its perfect geological features.

Beautiful coloures and textures ©Fenfolio2016

Dykes and sills of igneous rocks ©Fenfolio2016

Late in the evening we set camp on the Isle of Soay, near Loch Doire an Lochain on the smaller part of the island. The weather was still fantastic, making our bedroom window view spectacular!

Our campsite on Isle of Soay ©Fenfolio2016

Another beautiful calm but very cold night ©Fenfolio2016

Luckily there was plenty of firewood to be found here and we made ourselves comfortable behind big rocks sheltered from the wind.

Fireman ©Fenfolio2016

Cosy fire ©Fenfolio2016

The next day we explored the island of Soay and in particular the derelict shark factory, started by author Gavin Maxwell. Many basking sharks were processed here for their oil just after WW2. It is now mainly used by local fishermen where they keep their crails.

Derelict shark factory on Soay ©Fenfolio2016

Nature taking over ©Fenfolio2016

Crails ©Fenfolio2016

Sea still life ©Fenfolio2016

Beached vintage video recorder ©Fenfolio2016

Greylag goose eggs ©Fenfolio2016

Hopefully many more mini expeditions like this will come this season!

Monday, 11 April 2016

Last winter trip of the season

The weekend of the 18th of March we had booked ourselves on one of the ski club (ESTC) meets at Laggan, south of Newtonmore, in The Cabin, one of Edinburgh JMCS huts. It had been quite warm recently so most snow had already disappeared. Well, at least on the east side where we live but The Cairngorms had still plenty!

On Saturday early morning we started at Cairngorm upper car park and skinned up Fiacaill a' Choire Chais. The weather forecast gave us negligible wind but very thick, low cloud. We were hoping that if we got high enough we would be above it. And we were right because when we approached the steep bit of the ridge, we could see the sun appearing. A few steps more and we were witness of a beautiful cloud inversion in the valley.

Skinning up Fiacaill a' Choire Chais through clouds ©Fenfolio2016

Above cloud inversion ©Fenfolio2016

Skinning up Fiacaill a' Choire Chais in spring weather ©Fenfolio2016

Skinning up the steepest bit of Fiacaill a' Choire Chais ©Fenfolio2016

After we took in the stunning scenery and soaked up some vitamin D, we headed towards Cairn Lochan, back into the thick cloud. It was constantly changing so it didn't last long until the sun was back again. Initially we planned to skin further to Ben Macdui but most of us preferred to ski down the very appealing slopes here. The snow on our first run back to the saddle at Coire Cais was so good that we did this a few times!

Taking in the views towards Ben Macdui ©Fenfolio2016

Making our way to Cairn Lochan ©Fenfolio2016

View from Cairn Lochan ©Fenfolio2016

Then we skied down Coire Raibert and skinned up the top of Cairngorm, skiing downhill on the groomed slopes back to the carpark. Down here there was not much snow left so we really had to circumnavigate carefully around the heather. Luckily the Fiacaill ridge poma was not open and it still had lots of snow so we had the opportunity to ski down here. Again, the snow quality was fantastic so I went first showing the 9 guys how you really ski, haha!! It was the perfect last run of the season.

On Sunday, we made a walk to A'Mharconaich, one of the mountains along the Drumochter Pass. Although I could still feel my muscles from the day before, it was great to be out again and walking through the snow patches.

It has been a fantastic winter season. Now it's time for other sports like cycling and sea kayaking in hopefully some decent summer weather!

Walking up to A'Mharconaich ©Fenfolio2016

Descending from A'Mharconaich ©Fenfolio2016

Me being happy! ©Fenfolio2016

Monday, 22 February 2016

Nordic adventure

The moment we booked our ski holiday to Geilo in Norway I have been counting down. Although we've only been back for a week, it already seems a long time ago. So by posting a selection of my photographs here I can experience it all over again!

From Bergen we took the train towards Oslo. It takes about 3.5 hrs to get to Geilo. According to many travel books and the internet, the Bergen railway journey is one of the most beautiful in the world. Well, it was definitely not exaggerated and we were in awe of the arctic landscape which was unfolding right beside us!

Travelling through a wintry fjord between Bergen and Geilo ©Fenfolio2016

Norwegian life in winter ©Fenfolio2016

Hardanggervidda mountain plateau near Finse ©Fenfolio2016

Arrival at Geilo train station ©Fenfolio2016

Geilo train station ©Fenfolio2016

In Geilo we made trips from our hotel on our Nordic skis, on average 15k per day. The area has an amazing network of groomed and some less prepared cross-country tracks. Our skis are wider than traditional cross-country skis but narrower than normal downhill or telemark skis. Because of this we skied outside the tracks, either in the middle part or off-piste in powder snow. The skis are lightweight, have fishscales underneath (to prevent you from sliding down when going uphill) and are only fixed at the toes. To warm up on our first day we did a tour around the lake, about 13 km.

Ustedalsfjorden tour around the lake ©Fenfolio2016

Information board along the cross-country track ©Fenfolio2016

Spot the flying dipper ©Fenfolio2016

Snowy river at Geilo ©Fenfolio2016

Funky church at Geilo ©Fenfolio2016

The Scots can learn a lot from the Norwegian people regarding
woodland management ©Fenfolio2016

A few Norwegian stabburs: granaries made from wood on pillars
©Fenfolio2016

Beautiful and authentic Norwegian stabbur ©Fenfolio2016

Detail of Norwegian stabbur ©Fenfolio2016

The next day we decided to venture further, nearby Hallingskarvet National Park, on the North side of the lake. Initially it was difficult to find our starting point. We first had to take the ski lift uphill (one-way ticket) and then pick up one of the tracks signposted there. Easier said than done! We only saw very steep downhill slopes for the skiers, but no directions or even groomed tracks for cross-country skiers. We were not the only ones having this problem. Because Jaap was determined not to ski downhill and because he is such a great navigator, he was able to pick up the track in the end! It was all fine until we tried to navigate our way to a certain point. We realised that the map we had didn't correspond with what was signposted and shown up the mountain.

Very clear map and network shown on top of mountain and you can also see us!
©Fenfolio2016

After our trip we went to the Tourist Information and they were very helpful in giving us printouts of maps corresponding with the maps uphill. So the rest of the week it was a breeze to make our way through the landscape!

Halfway the week I took a day off of skiing due to an achilles injury. Instead of feeling sorry for myself I swam a lot in the hotel's swimming pool. Luckily I was able to treat the pain by massaging the tendon and by doing more stretches. This is something I have to do regularly due to the shape of my feet (rigid high arches) but I tend to forget this, especially when I do strenious activities. Jaap went out on his own and had a fabulous day, again on the North side of the lake near Hallingskarvet National Park. The next day he showed me the area and I was in heaven!

Another trip we did was skiing to Grønebakken. Again, we took the lift uphill and picked up the track from there. In the valley it was -20 C but once up there the sun and the exercise kept us warm. We could even have our lunch outside!

Too quickly our holiday came to an end. Looking down on the landscape we were leaving behind, we were already thinking about our next trip.....by kayak!

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